Things happen when climbing and mountaineering. You may drop your belay or rappel device, it’s easily done. Or you may be doing a route that only has a short abseil, and you are belaying using an Italian hitch so don’t want to carry something you don’t need.
In this post, we are going to look over some techniques on how to abseil without a rappel device. All these techniques work if done properly and safely. Ensure to practice in a controlled environment, or seek professional advice. Doing any technique can result in death if performed incorrectly. This post is for info and awareness.
Technique 1 The Carabiner Break 1
This would probably be my go-to method if I have the 3 lockers that I need. However, it can move very quickly and be hard to break once speed builds up (which will happen quickly).
Pros:
Doesn’t require much gear to do
Quick and easy to set up
Cons:
Easy to get wrong
The gate can unscrew and open due to the rope
What you need:
3 Locking Carabiners
1 Prusik
How to set up and use
Step 1 Set carabiners:
Clip one of the carabiners to your harness, then clip another carabiner to the first one and close both gates. It should look like this.
Step 2 Bite of rope:
Take a bite of rope and thread it through the 2nd carabiner then clip your 3rd carabiner to both strands. It should look like this.
Step 3 Clip to rope:
Take the bite of rope that has the carabiner on it and clip it above the 2nd carabiner then pull it tight. It should look like this.
Step 4 Test and Go:
Test if it works; if so, add a prusik, remove yourself from the anchor, and start to rappel slowly, as you would with an ATC. Ensure you always have one hand on the prusik and one hand on the rope. You never want to lose contact with the rope. It should look like this.
Technique 2 – The Carabiner Break 2
I don’t like this method as much as the above. Don’t get me wrong it works, but it requires more gear, making sure they are opposing, it just takes more time than the former method I showed you. However, it can move very quickly and be hard to break once speed builds up (which will happen quickly).
Pros:
It works well
Cons:
Requires more gear than other methods.
Takes time to set up and can be a faff
What you need:
1 Locking carabiner
4 Oval or D-shaped carabiners provide the best results, but almost any carabiner will work. small or sharp-spine carabiners should only be used as a last resort.
1 Prusik
How to set up and use
Step 1 Set carabiners:
Clip one of the carabiners to your harness, then clip another two carabiners to the first one, if non-locking ensure the gates are opposing. It should look like this.
Step 2:
Take a bite of rope and thread it through the 2 carabiners, then clip your other two carabiners to the bite. Have the gates facing you, ready for the next step. It should look like this.
Step 3:
Take the bite of rope that has the carabiners on it and clip that to the rope above flip the gates facing away from you, they should now be facing the rope, and clip them to it. It should look like this.
Step 4:
Pull down on the rope until the carabiners are crossing (or aligning) over each other Bring the two carabiners down and have them crossing the other two that are attached to your harness. Ensure the rope does not touch the gates. It should look like this.
Step 5 Test and Go:
Test if it works; if so, add a prusik, remove yourself from the anchor, and start to rappel slowly, as you would with an ATC. Ensure you always have one hand on the prusik and one hand on the rope. You never want to lose contact with the rope. It should look like this.
Technique 3 – Italian/Munter Hitch
Not the best or safest out of the three, but there are uses for it. I have used it and it worked well. However, it can move very quickly and be hard to break once speed builds up (which will happen quickly). However, only needing two carabiners means it takes little gear to set up. Additionally, it is by far the quickest of the three methods to set up.
Pros:
Requires the least gear
Easy to set up
Cons:
Can slip
Will twist your rope like crazy
What you need:
2 Locking Carabiners
1 Prusik
How to set up and use
Step 1 Set Carabiners:
Clip one of the carabiners to your harness, then clip another carabiner to the first one and close both gates. It should look like this (have the carabiner large end up).
Step 2 Hitch:
Into the top carabiner tie an Italian/Munter hitch. It should look like this.
Step 3 Test and Go:
Test if it works; if so, add a prusik, remove yourself from the anchor, and start to rappel slowly, as you would with an ATC. Ensure you always have one hand on the prusik and one hand on the rope. You never want to lose contact with the rope.
To add more friction, pass the brake strands over the TOP of the hitch, then pass them back UNDER the carabiner to your right hand. This may also help with the twisting issue.
Conclusion
I’m not suggesting using these over a standard rappel. However, if an abseil is essential, but you don’t have a belay device (be it because you dropped it, or just didn’t pack one, these methods will work!
With break one (less so on the Italian/Munter or break 2, but still check), you need to keep an eye on the carabiner’s gates. Depending on how the rope goes through the carabiners, it can unscrew the lock and open the gate. A 3 or even 4-way safety carabiner would be the best piece to use if you have one.
With all these methods (especially the Italian/Munter Hitch), rappelling slowly is paramount as they aren’t the easiest to break if they get up to speed compared to a normal belay device.
All these methods if performed correctly will work. Ensure you practice in a safe environment if you do decide to use the information I have provided getting personal professional instruction before trying anything new is always recommended. This post details how you could rappel using carabiners and is only to be used as info not teaching or telling you to do it.
