When you start climbing, one of the trickiest things to grasp is the abundance of grading systems for different types of climbing. Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), Font, French, Alpine, British Trad, British Tech—the list goes on. Converting between them is no cakewalk, and figuring out which system applies to what type of climbing adds another layer of confusion. Indoor gyms, to top it off, often have their own grading systems that can be subjective.
Let’s cut through the complexity and make climbing grades easy to understand, so you won’t be scratching your head when checking out route grades.
Understanding the Grading Systems
You don’t need to master them all, but let’s go over the main grading systems you’ll encounter:
Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)
Widely used in North America, YDS ranges from class 1 (easy hiking) to class 5 (technical rock climbing). Within class 5, you’ll find gradations with decimals and letters, like 5.8 or 5.12b. The higher the number, the tougher the climb. Letters (up to C) further distinguish between grades; for example, 5.10a is easier than 5.10c.
The V-Scale
In bouldering, the V-Scale stands out. It starts from V0 (easier) and goes up with additional letters for nuances in difficulty (e.g., V2, V5, V8). Unlike other systems, the V-Scale is consistent globally, making it easier for boulderers to communicate. It focuses on short, intense problems, requiring strength, technique, and problem-solving.
British Trad/Tech Grading
British Trad Grading
- Numerical Scale:
- Moderate (M): Easy introductory climbs.
- Difficult (D): Slightly more challenging.
- Very Difficult (VD): Intermediate level.
- Hard Very Difficult (HVD): More demanding climbs.
- Severe (S) and Hard Severe (HS):
- Severe (S): Significant increase in difficulty.
- Hard Severe (HS): More strenuous, demanding heightened skill.
- Very Severe (VS) to Extremely Severe (E):
- Very Severe (VS): Substantial jump in difficulty.
- Hard Very Severe (HVS): High difficulty and seriousness.
- Extremely Severe (E): Exceptional difficulty and seriousness.
British Tech Grading
Focuses on technical difficulty, with a scale from 4a to Technical 7b. Combined grading, like E2 5b, combines traditional and technical aspects.
French and Font
Fontainebleau (Font)
Designed for bouldering, Font uses a numerical scale (e.g., 6a, 7b) where higher numbers indicate more challenging boulder problems. Considers factors like problem length and climbing style.
French Grading System
Versatile, used for sport climbing and bouldering. The numerical scale is similar to Font (e.g., 6a, 7b), but interpretations differ. Holistic in sport climbing, focusing on sustained difficulty, technicality, and mental endurance.
Bridging the Gap
Font emphasizes the overall bouldering challenge, while the French system, applicable to both bouldering and sport climbing, often focuses on the hardest move. Understanding these nuances is key for climbers transitioning between systems.
Indoor Gym Grading
Subjective and gym-specific. Focus on improvement within the specific gym’s scale rather than comparing it with others.
Converting Grades
Challenging due to nuances. Online converters can help, but climb within your comfort zone when transitioning. Climbing grades aren’t standardized globally, so appreciate local nuances.
Conclusion
Climbing grades may seem confusing at first, but with experience, they become intuitive. They’re tools to help you choose climbs aligned with your abilities and goals. Embrace the learning curve, and you’ll navigate the climbing world with confidence. Happy climbing!
