You have been climbing in the gym for a while now. The obvious progression would be to take your skills out on some real rock. I know it’s scary to think about, but it’s the natural progression for any climber. Trust me it is so much better. Out in nature and on proper rocks having a great day with mates.
I’m sure you have been thinking about it for a while. In this post, I will go over everything you need to get started and some tips and tricks for climbing outdoors. With the weather getting better and days longer, the perfect time to transition to outdoor rock climbing is now.
Firstly, I’m sure you know this already, but what discipline will you be doing? Bouldering is the cheapest, then you have Sport climbing which requires a bit more gear and then Trad climbing, which you’ll need even more for.
What you’ll need
There are some universal things you’ll need for all. I’m going to assume you have most of this, but I’ll list it anyway. First of all, you’ll need shoes and calk for all climbing. I also recommend bringing a spare bag of chalk in case you run out, as there are no shops to buy it at the crag like in the gym.
Secondly, you’ll need a way of finding routes. You can either use 27crags or UKC. Alternatively, I recommend getting Rockfax which is owned by UKC and you can download crag maps along with giving you an image and description of the climb so you know exactly where to go and what to do.
Another way is you can buy a guidebook for where you will be climbing which gives you routes crags and grades, however, it can be a little harder to navigate the climb using the book. They also can’t be updated like the app or website, so you may miss any new lines or updates.
Top tip, a lot of routes may have videos on YouTube if you are struggling to work out the beta so type the route name and location and it may show you how the climb is meant to be done.
Bouldering
Bouldering requires less gear than the other two disciplines. You’ll need a crash pad to land on and some brushes to clean the holds. It’s important to brush the holds before you climb to remove any dirt or moss, which can make the climb much harder than it is. Dirty holds can also damage rock for other climbers. Make sure to keep the route clean and in good condition.
Also never climb if the rock is wet as this weakens holds causing them to break which will ruin the climb for other people. Ensure it’s not rained for a few days before heading out and check the climb is dry. If it’s still damp, just move on to a different route or go home and come back another day.
You’ll also need to check the access situation for the boulders you’re planning to climb. Sometimes landowners can close areas for nesting birds or other reasons, so make sure you check before you go.
Sport Climbing
Sport climbing requires more gear than bouldering, but less than trad climbing. You’ll need quickdraws to clip into the bolts on the route and a rope to tie into as well as slings and locking carabiners for the cleaning of the route (someone will need to teach you this). It’s important to know how to lead climb before you start sport climbing outdoors, as it can be very dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing.
Make sure you check the condition of the bolts before you climb, as some bolts may be rusty or loose. If you’re unsure, ask other climbers or the local climbing shop for advice.
I recommend getting a guide or going with a confident sport climber to ensure maximum safety. Don’t just head out and try Sport climbing without someone experienced to teach you.
Trad Climbing
Trad climbing requires the most gear of the three disciplines. You’ll need a full rack of gear, including cams, nuts, and hexes. You’ll also need to know how to place and remove gear, as well as how to build anchors.
Trad climbing can be very dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing, I recommend getting a guide or going with a trad climber to ensure maximum safety. Don’t just head out and try Trad climbing without someone experienced to teach you.
It’s also important to check the condition of the rock before you climb, as some areas may have loose or unstable rock.
Conclusion
Climbing outdoors is an amazing experience that every climber should try at some point. It can be scary at first, but it can be very safe and rewarding with the right gear and knowledge. Remember to always check the conditions and access situation before you climb, and to practice in a safe environment before you start climbing outdoors. Also, invest in a guide to take and teach you and a buddy for Trad and Sport. Good luck and have fun!
