Substation Macclesfield is an indoor rock climbing gym (They have a location in Brixton too). They also do Yoga classes; in this post, we focus on climbing. The address for this gym is Queens Court, Queen’s Ave, Macclesfield, SK10 2BN.
Why rock climbing? Rock climbing is a great way to get into a new hobby while getting fit and stronger. It is an outdoor sport, but indoors is very popular and a great place to start learning.
Substation Macclesfield is only for bouldering. Bouldering is a form of climbing performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without ropes or harnesses. Bouldering is the perfect place to start climbing as there is no need for masses of kit. All you need is chalk and some shoes (these can all be rented at the centre).
Why substation? I am doing this post and reviewing this specific gym for two reasons. One is there aren’t any reviews online, so you won’t know what it’s like, and two is the gym I have been climbing at for the past year and a bit (as of January 2023).
THE GYM
The gym caters to all levels, In 2023 they updated their grading and made it a bit difficult to compare/understand to standard grading systems. They no longer have a V grade or font, they made up a substation system ranging from 1-6. 1 being easy and 6 being the hardest. For a little help with this, see the graphic I made below. I hope it can help!
Another change they recently had, which I love (and a lot of others do too), is the colour of a route no longer corresponds with a grade. Therefore all holds can be used for all abilities giving the setters more freedom to create better routes.
Along with the main area, Substation have a training area with campus boards, fingerboards, bars, a few free weights, and a pegboard (which I challenge you to top out on)
The training area is just before the mat when you enter the bouldering room on your left. Stepping onto the carpet, if you head left, you have a circuit/splatter board to make things up or climb around them for endurance. Opposite, they have an overhang LED wooden board with a screen where you choose the problem, and the corresponding holds a light-up, So you know where to climb. People create routes for this board, and there are over 700 ( the most in the UK).
For the main Bouldering, there is a smaller wall upstairs for beginners where the problems only go up to V4, and the wall isn’t quite as tall as the central area.
A board tells you the grade ranges in the main bouldering area. There is also an app called Griptonite. You can download and then scan the route to get the exact grade.
Onto the walls. If you walk around the gym, the walls have many variations; they aren’t just all flat. You have overhangs ranging from a slight incline to pretty much flat. You then have areas where you climb around corners and some slabs. As you can tell, there are loads of variations to the walls alone; this is good as you can try things in all sorts of positions using all types of skills.
Now for the routes and holds. There are so many holds, average-looking and quirky. There is also every style of the way at all sorts of grades. You have crimps, jug-based, pocket routes that incorporate multiple types of holds, and even some crack climbing.
They have made the best of the situation for such limited space (compared to other gyms). The new weekly routes and quirky walls mean you will try all sorts of climbing styles. So you will always have new ways to work on. This Gym is perfect for new and experienced climbers, as it has something for everyone.
THE STAFF
The staff at Substation Macclesfield was helpful. Not only are they quick to get you signed in or your food if you order some. They are also all excellent climbers and will help you if needed.
There have been a handful of occasions where I’ve had the staff walk past, and I’ve been struggling on a climb, and they will often ask if I need a hand. They will also help you if you are in the middle of an upgrade and can’t see the next move.
If you have questions, the staff are always happy to help. There are also instructors at the substation. So if you are new to climbing, ask about lessons to help bring you into the sport. The knowledgeable instructors will help you out. They are also good if you’re a climber looking to up your game; they’ll be able to teach you loads as well.
Disclaimer: This is my opinion of Substation Macclesfield. Substation hasn’t paid for this post.
