The Tenaya Mastia, this shoe seems to be taking the climbing scene by storm. I am seeing more and more people using this shoe, but why? what’s so special about this shoe, is there anything, or are we all sheep jumping on the trend? Well, as a sheep myself I bought them so let’s review this shoe and see why it’s becoming so popular, and whether or not you should buy it too.
My experience with the Tanaya Mastia
My experience with the Mastia leaves me with mixed feelings. While it’s not a shoe I dislike, it doesn’t quite align with my climbing preferences. However, there are notable features that deserve recognition.
One standout feature is its robust heel construction. With dual rubber runners flanking each side, the Mastia excels in securing the heel during tight pulls. The snug fit around the heel enhances my confidence during heel hooks, amplifying their effectiveness. It’s refreshing to see a shoe prioritize heel performance, as many others often overlook this critical aspect. While the Mastia initially excels in edging, as it breaks in, it transitions into a stiffer feel, suggesting that a stiffer shoe like the shoe might be preferable for prolonged use.
As someone inclined towards technical and controlled climbing, I appreciate the Mastia’s softer build, particularly on slab routes where sensitivity is paramount. While slab climbing might not be my primary focus, the Mastia’s performance in this realm is undeniable. Additionally, its softness lends itself well to crack climbing, facilitating secure foot placements within crevices. However, I find the Mastia lacking compared to alternatives like the Oasi for climbs demanding crimp precision.
Regarding closure systems, while Mastia’s mechanism is functional, it falls short compared to the superior closure of the Oasi. Despite this, the Mastia still provides a snug fit, albeit not to the same degree as its counterpart.
Given the opportunity, I’d consider keeping the Mastia in my collection, primarily for climbs requiring heightened feedback such as slabs or smearing-intensive routes. However, budget constraints limit me to a single pair at a time, prompting careful consideration of its long-term compatibility with my evolving climbing needs.
Tenaya Mastia Specifications
- Uppers: Microfibre
- Closure: SystemVelcro
- Tongue: Highly breathable
- Lining: Without lining
- Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
- Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 y TST 150
- Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm
- Weight: 330 g
- Sizes: 2-12 UK with half sizes
A note from Tenaya themselves – “The Mastia has a perfect balance of features. It is soft yet structured, offering awesome control for precision edging while at the same time providing superb sensitivity and feedback in smearing and friction situations where split-second responsiveness can mean the difference between success and failure.”
The only spec that sets this shoe as something different (for me at least), is the heel friction lock. his little bit of rubber added onto the heel gives you amazing security. I find when on trad, getting a good heel is a perfect time for a rest and a shake out, and this makes that even stronger.
Conclusion
To conclude, yes this is a good shoe, I definitely would buy this again as it works well for me. If you are looking for something a little better than beginner. I would also recommend giving this shoe a try as it is not overly aggressive or stiff.
Update: I have to add this update, as I recently bought a second pair of this shoe (not something I usually do) and as much as I do like it, the rand split within 2 months and for paying £150, I’m not happy about that.
