Introduction
With my La Sportiva’s running out of life, I thought it was time to test out a new I chose the Tenaya Oasi. I’m going to let you know what I think and take a look at their specifications. Teneya is a very popular climbing brand that seems to have more people climbing in every time I go to the gym or crag.
Tenaya is an expensive brand due to the materials used all being ethically sourced and made with the planet at the heart of development and manufacturing. Not only are they good for the planet, but they also make some great shoes used by the likes of Alex Megos, Chris Sharma and now me.
I opted for the Oasi due to the style (and price) of the shoe, there are many great things that persuaded me to use this for the foreseeable. The discount I got was obviously one of them. Let’s test out the shoe, and see how it feels.
Notably used on ascents of climbs such as; the second ascent 9b Jumbo Love, by Ethan Pringle and first ascent of 9a+ Wheelchair by Alex Megos.
Product Images
Product Specifications
- Uppers: Microfibre
- Closure System: Velcro, patented Draxtor system
- Tongue: Lycra, two-layer and bidirectional
- Lining: TXT-treated cotton
- Insole: 2D multi-layer Stretchtex
- Midsole: Double midsole GI 1.8 & TST 150
- Sole: Vibram XS Grip 3.5 mm.
- Weight: 340 grams.
- Sizes: 1-13 (UK) with half sizes
The goal from Tenaya when developing this shoe was for it to be a great all-around shoe perfect for a climber who’s often doing all sorts of styles. From slab to vert and bouldering to trad. The Tenaya Oasi works for any climber unless you only climb overhang, it’s a bit too soft for this.
The Oasi features a downturned shape, providing excellent power transfer and enhancing the climber’s ability to edge and perform on small footholds. Its downturn allows for precise foot placement on hard to find slab and vert routes
Built with a synthetic microfiber upper, the Oasi offers exceptional breathability and moisture control, ensuring comfort during extended climbing sessions. The upper material is designed to mould to the foot’s shape over time, providing a custom fit and improved performance as the shoe adapts to the climber’s foot. The highly adjustable hook-and-loop closure system also allows for a secure and personalized fit, accommodating a wide range of foot shapes and sizes.
The Oasi is equipped with Vibram XS Grip rubber, renowned for its outstanding friction and durability. This high-performance rubber compound delivers exceptional grip on both indoor climbing walls and outdoor rock surfaces, instilling confidence in climbers to push their limits. The shoe’s midsole incorporates a TST multi-layer stretch fabric, providing a balance of flexibility and support for enhanced sensitivity and optimal power transmission.
Whether you’re bouldering, sport climbing, or tackling technical routes, the Tenaya Oasi climbing shoe is designed to elevate your performance. With its precise fit, aggressive shape, and top-quality materials, the Oasi offers climbers what they need to send the hardest routes
Personal Review
First and foremost, I have to say, that getting my hands on new new shoes was lovely! There’s just something special about that fresh rubber, and boy, did I need these shoes. I usually wear a size 8, but this time I had to settle for a 6 1/2 since they didn’t have a size 6 in stock. Maybe a 6 would have been ideal, but hey, it’s all good.
The best part is the way these shoes fit my feet, especially at the toe. It’s like they were made for my foot shape. However, I did notice a slight air pocket at the bottom of the heel. Now, it could be because of my feet or perhaps due to me going half a size bigger than I wanted. Honestly, that doesn’t bother me too much. These shoes perform quite well during hard heel hooks and stay put without slipping.
Now, let me tell you about the real fun I’ve had with these shoes on the climbing wall and outdoors. I’ve sent routes graded f7a outdoor and f7b indoor, and even took them on some trad and sport lines. They’re truly an all-around performer, perfect for various types of climbing. The only time I noticed a bit of a challenge was on steep overhangs, where the shoe felt a tad soft to put the pressure needed through the toe. Nevertheless, they managed to hold their own in every other aspect, and my style of climbing!
One of my favourite features has to be the closing Velcro design, it’s absolutely genius! I can’t express enough how much I admire Teneya for coming up with such a smart solution. The best part is the tab that can be shortened, so no annoying overhanging bits of strap messing up the fit. I’ve had other shoes before where, as they wore in, getting them tight became a real hassle, and the straps ended up sticking out awkwardly. But with these shoes, it’s a breeze to get a snug and comfortable fit!
All in all, despite the tiny air pocket and the softness not being ideal for overhangs, I must say these shoes are great. They’ve elevated my climbing experience.
The real question is would I buy them again?
Honestly, probably not. As much as I do enjoy using these shoes, they are better on the market for similar price points.
This doesn’t mean I won’t buy from Tenaya again, just I wouldn’t get the Oasis again. And that’s my personal opinion, they don’t work for my foot/climbing style. I have just bought a pair of Tenaya Mastias so I’ll have a review for those out soon!
Check out my other climb shoe reviews to help you find your shoe.
